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Funter pusher landing gear mods6/25/2023 I cut the paper, pressed in the magnet to size the hole. These happened to be out of a dead motor, but they are available online. but I wanted a canopy, and that covers the pin. In the plans, the top deck is attached with a paper hinge and bamboo pin. The bevel isnt cut yet, but the wire needs to be right up next to it or even into it a bit to clear the rudder. 32 wire, and looking at it, it's problebly 1/4" or so longer than it needs on each end. One of my first builds was an FT Simple Storch, and it was great, but the elevator warped on me because the connection between the sides is thin relative to the surfaces. I used a gift card and 1/16” ply, with CA and Hot Glue. So I searched and found this by hursto75. After only a few flights the rudder begins to delaminate and while it didn’t fail completely it was only a matter of time. The steerable tail wheel ‘solution’ I used didn’t work well. Not quite sure what I was thinking as I bent this one. The rudder has a high strength to weight and on other Mini builds has held up well for me. No, not the best solution or implementation of a not the best solution, but on a Mini it isn’t so bad. Be aware poster board rounded 'turtle' decks distort the pattern if you use one. Nearly all of these can be used on other FT planes besides the Mini Sportster in these examples. They aren't really anything special or new, but I thought if they were here in one place for others to see maybe someone could use them. So for this FT Mighty Mini Sportster here are some modifications to do as you put it together. I also like planes that can not only take off from the ground, but are steerable also. It’s no fun fixing the damaged pod for the fourth time, or adding support after the fact. Over the last year I’ve learned a few things about the FT planes. Looking around the internet results in plenty of very nice designs, but many have long or complicated build times in comparison (Maybe someday, when I don’t crash so much). Maintaining the 4 Horizon planes in my hanger is fun too, in spite of my apparent learning curve disability where it comes to flying them!Īll I can say is I really like the FT concepts. About a dozen or so FT designs so far both scratch and speed build kits, plus a few modified planes based on FT design and one or two started with a piece of DTFB and ending up with delta wing using no plans at all. It is probably best to assess which landing gear best suits your purpose, as much as cutting/installing bungees is not the most convenient, each of the landing gear configurations has a different purpose.I’m relatively new to RC airplanes compared to many here, Flying just over a year and building about as long. I have this gear, very well made and tough! I am very happy with it (make sure you install a SGS set too). Seaplanes North gear comes highly recommended. ![]() ![]() I have never installed a set, but you will install in a way that allows standard bungee gear to be reinstalled. I believe there are two ways to install the AOSS. ![]() You will want to try different bungees also, to find what works for you, a combination of 1280hd, 13hd’s work well. this will save a little time and negate the need to buy 6 bungees every changeover. ![]() The AOSS gear makes the change between gear legs and floats without the need to cut the bungees/or install when changing between. there are other items needed to install/reinstall like Hyd lines, hyd pump, brake lines, Ventral or Stab fin, ASI, electrical connectors, steering/rudder/retract cables and various fuselage panels. Use bungee tool for landng gear reinstall. You do need to cut the bungees for landing gear removal. I wouldn’t call the change between gear and floats particularly difficult.
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